Why shaping matters
At the end of bulk fermentation the dough is full of gas but has little structure. Shaping stretches the outer skin of gluten tight around that gas, like a balloon. A taut skin holds the loaf's shape during the final proof and pushes the bread upward in the oven, giving you height and a bold ear.
Pre-shaping
- Tip the dough out onto a clean, unfloured bench. Unfloured surfaces give the dough grip, which you need to build tension.
- Round it. Slide a bench scraper under one side and drag the dough toward you in short, curved strokes, turning it as you go, until it forms a loose round with a smooth top.
- Rest. Leave it uncovered for 20 to 30 minutes. The gluten relaxes so the final shape is easier and doesn't tear.
Shaping a boule (round)
- Lightly flour the top of the rested round and flip it over, floured side down.
- Fold the bottom third up, then each side into the middle, then the top down, like folding a letter in all four directions.
- Flip it seam side down. Cup your hands around the far side and pull the dough toward you a few times, turning it slightly each pull, until the surface is tight and smooth.
- Lift it with the scraper and place it smooth side down in the banneton.
Shaping a batard (oval)
- Flour and flip the round as above. Gently stretch it into a rough rectangle.
- Fold the left and right sides in so they slightly overlap in the middle.
- Starting at the top, roll the dough down toward you, pressing each roll lightly into the dough below to seal it, until you have a tight log.
- Pinch the seam closed and place seam side up in an oval banneton.
Dough sticking to your hands? Use a scraper for most of the work and wet or very lightly floured hands for the rest. Too much flour on the bench stops the dough from gripping and you won't build tension.
Preparing a banneton
Dust the banneton or a towel-lined bowl generously with rice flour, or a mix of rice and wheat flour. Rice flour absorbs less water, so the dough is far less likely to stick after a long cold retard. Tap out any excess before use.
Scoring
Score straight from the fridge. Cold dough is firmer and cuts cleanly. Use a lame (a razor blade on a handle) or a very sharp, thin knife.
| Score | How | Result |
|---|---|---|
| Single ear on a batard | One long cut slightly off-centre, blade at about 30 to 45° to the surface, 6 to 12 mm (¼ to ½ in) deep | One side lifts into a crisp ridge, the "ear" |
| Cross on a boule | Two cuts at right angles, blade nearly upright, 6 to 10 mm deep | An even, four-petal opening |
| Square on a boule | Four cuts forming a square | A flat top that lifts like a lid |
| Decorative | Shallow cuts of 1 to 2 mm, plus one deeper main cut | Patterns that hold, with the main cut taking the expansion |
Getting an ear
- Angle the blade low, so it cuts under the skin and creates a flap.
- Cut confidently in one smooth stroke. Hesitant cuts drag and tear.
- Proof correctly. Under-proofed dough bursts open unevenly; over-proofed dough has little spring left to lift the flap.
- Use steam. A covered Dutch oven traps the loaf's own steam, which keeps the surface soft long enough for the cut to open.
When the shape spreads or the score doesn't open, the cause is often fermentation rather than technique. See troubleshooting.